Using the AWR Nano
NanomanualBattery:
The battery must be installed with the positive side toward the head...
in many cases there will be a tiny tiny magnet on the bottom of the battery
and that must be centered on the negative side of the battery. This magnet
is just a spacer to make up for the foam donut being just a bit too thick..
and in many cases it is not needed or after the foam wears in it won't
be needed.. keep the magnet (if you got one with your light).. in-case
you need to fine-tune the battery connections in the future.
Operation:
Simply twist the head in a 'righty tighty' fashion.. as the head is screwed
into the body... it will make contact with the battery turning the light
on in 'low' mode.. continued turning will engage 'medium' and then 'high'..
Since the switch is a linear switch but you operate it by twisting.. it
is quite possible to inadvertently 'pull' the head toward the body as
you twist and it can make the light 'blink' when you don't expect it..
this is absolutely normal.. you can simulate this by turning the light
from low to medium and than backing off just 'til it switches to low..
at that point.. pull the head toward the body and it should 'blink' into
medium.. i'm sure this could actually be used to signal if you'd want..
this will actually also work between med and high and off and low.. and
though 'low' is sub-optimal for signaling it would work.
You should 'get aquatinted' with the operation using two hands to see
exactly how the switch works without adding additional operations inadvertently..
It will take a while for the threads to seat... they are freshly machined
surfaces.. i put a lubricating contact enhancer on the threads and o-ring
before shipping (pro-gold).. and it usually works in very nicely, making
the head turn like butta after a week or so of use.
Brightness Levels:
Most nanos are built with 3 levels.. the average current is about 40-225-450..
you should expect to be able to get about 6hrs on low.. 70 minutes on
medium and 30 minutes on high.
Known issue you should know about:
Since the switch is actuated from linear motion.. it is quite possible
that the light will actually warm up enough to lengthen enough to change
the brightness setting... i.e. you twist it to high beam.. set it down..
the light warms up and get longer.. it will in-fact switch to medium mode..
simply turn the light a little more to get it back where you desire.
When the battery dies... you will slowly lose the ability to engage the
brighter modes..
Example.. you may be able to use low beam and med. beam... but suddenly
you will not have access to 'high beam'... avoid the temptation to try
to turn the head harder... if high beam doesn't kick in with the usual
amount of force.. most likely this is just because the battery is mostly
depleted... you will notice that after high-beam no longer functions..
it won't be long before medium no longer gives you an appreciable improvement
over low... once there is no difference between med and low and high..
it means you are about 95% depleted on the battery and even low beam will
just be an exponential decay of brightness. You should be able to use
low-beam for quite a while even if medium only kicks in 'a little bit'..
amazing difference when using 1/5th the current.
When in-doubt.. charge the battery!
Battery charging:
If you have 'package one' and only have one body and two heads (one for
charging one for blinding.. i mean.. lighting things up)... you simply
unscrew the light head and screw on the charger head.. I usually plug
it in first so i can confirm that it has power before attaching to the
battery tube...
If you have 'package two' (or three).. you can use the same method to
charge the battery in the light... or you can charge the 'spare' battery
using the similar motions... there are two very significant differences
between the 'charger' body and the 'flashlight' body...
ONE: the charger body has a mechanical reverse polarity protection built
in... if you put the battery in backwards.. (positive down into the tube)..
there is a mechanical limit that will prevent the positive nipple from
making contact... the charger will act like there is no battery in it
and it will prevent you from killing the charger which has no tolerance
for reverse polarity of the battery. (so... be very careful if you use
a charger in the flashlight body.. since you can in-fact put the battery
in backwards and it will damage the charger if you do).
TWO: the flashlight body has a specially designed foam donut at the bottom.
The donut has two jobs: 1) anti 'blinkie'.. and 2) anti-rattle.. it's
extremely effective and gives a much more distinct engagement for 'low'
when first turning on.
You can use either body for either but will lose the specific benefit
of the design.
Indications on the charger;
Power on: 'blinks'.
Charging: solid
Charged: off
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